Happy Journeys with Celebrate-Travel, Inc

Florence, Tuscany, Rome, and Amalfi Coast was the perfect honeymoon for Amy and Kevin

Hotel Savoy in Florence-great location and excellent service, very modern and very clean. The rooms were pretty hot even with the A/C but they brought us a fan which definitely helped. Rooms were very modern, great bath products. The gym was small but useable. The TV does not have a lot of English channels.  The concierge was so helpful, as was the front desk staff. Greeted us by name, took our picture, and made our reservations. Breakfast was delicious-continental style with lots of fruit, eggs, pastries, fish, meat, etc.

We went to the Uffizi and Academia Galleries.  Concierge arranged our tickets before we arrived and added to our hotel bill.  We walked around a lot-to Ponte Vecchio, Boboli Gardens (got there too late so they were closed), Michaelangelo’s Piazza, shopping, etc.

Private driver, Simone, was great-so nice and informative. Good sense of humor. He took us to Greve and Radda in Chianti and a few other small villages. Told us the history as we were driving and took time to stop for good pictures. We went to two wineries. Monterinaldi was our fav-best lunch of the trip. Beautiful grounds. Casa Emma was nice but not as intimate as Monterinaldi. He was very punctual and the car was very nice to spend the day in.

Took first class train to Rome-very nice and easy. Stored luggage at Roma Termini-so easy. We did the hop on hop off bus in Rome. I think we had about 7 hours total, including storing luggage, finding the bus, etc. We were able to stop at the Colosseum and do a tour, Trevi Fountain, and Vatican City (we saw the Sistine Chapel and the grounds. The line at St Peter’s Basilica was too long).  

 

From Rome, we took the first class train to Naples. Giovanni picked us up and we drove two hours to Amalfi.

We went to Capri one day-so easy to take the ferry from Amalfi. About a ten-12 min walk to ferry from the hotel or the hotel had a shuttle service to drive you there.

Stayed at the pool most days. Went to Amalfi for dinner a few nights. Ate at the hotel twice but found that the best restaurants were the “typical” restaurants-more casual, homemade pasta, etc.  You could eat at the typical restaurants for about 40 euro, including drinks whereas the recommended “fancier” places tended to be more expensive-around 100 euro and up.

Went to Positano one day (lunch at Le Tre Sorelle)-took the boat which was nice to be on the water and also much less expensive than a taxi. Went to Ravello for dinner one night (Cumpa Cosimo)-took the local bus which was actually very nice and comfortable and so much cheaper than taking a cab. I think it was 4 euros round trip for the two of us!

Santa Caterina was very nice but not as modern as the Savoy.  The room was older, although pretty, but our view was partly of the street.  The concierges were all very nice, especially Mateo. The pool staff could have been more attentive but the pool area itself was amazing. The pool has seaside access-literally could jump from the lounge chair into the sea. Gorgeous. We ate lunch mainly at the hotel but the restaurant did not open until 1pm which was a little late for our taste but we found that we could ask for light snacks (olives, peanuts, pretzels) at the pool. Other than the main restaurant and room service, there was nowhere else to get food during the day at the hotel.

Anne’s services were wonderful-we felt that we had all the details to our trip and there were no surprises. She listened to what we wanted and made suggestions accordingly.  She was extremely attentive in making sure that we had all our materials and itineraries, including drivers, dates, etc.  She also recommended various excursions in each place that we stayed. We had a very well planned trip and were able to accomplish all that we wanted to.  It was great having pre-arranged transportation for our wine tour and transfers to Amalfi, as well as having the first class train ticket pre booked.  We would  (and already have) recommend her to anyone looking for a great travel agent who clearly takes pride in what she does and makes sure that her clients have the best vacation possible!

Rhine/Main Christmas Markets River Cruise Day 8

Nuremberg, December 17, 2009—It would be a shame if Nuremberg was only remembered for its Nazi stadium, Kongresshalle, and the post-war Nazi trials. While acknowledging that one dark chapter in its history, Nuremberg has so much more to offer.

Like a rich history of culture, prosperity, and Renaissance intellectualism. And like gingerbread! For us gingerbread fiends, this Gingerbread Capital of the World is nirvana. Its famed Elisen Lebkuchen is like none other, and in fact, the ingredients are strictly regulated, much like a celebrated wine variety.

Besides gingerbread—as if that’s not enough—Nuremberg also hosts Germany’s largest Christkindlmarkt with over 200 stalls and the Christkind angel benignly keeping watch over the festivities.

Nuremberg is also renowned for its toys, and the thousands of children that we saw on holiday confirmed that Nuremberg delights children today as it has for centuries.

Rhine/Main Christmas Markets River Cruise Day 7

Bamberg, December 16, 2009—Tiny Bamberg near the confluence of the Main and Regnitz rivers has been nicknamed Little Rome and Little Venice; like Rome, it was built on seven hills. And like Venice, water plays an integral role with the river running through the village, shops and houses lined along the canal, and even a fisherman’s colony.

The Rathaus (City Hall) is perched on an island in the middle of the river to equitably serve the two districts that sprang up on opposite sides of the river. The Cathedral, called Dom in Germany, dates to 1012 and houses the only papal tomb in Germany (Pope Clement II).

Viewing the lovely Christmas displays along the Nativity Walk puts you in the right mood. And when you’re tired from exploring the medieval alleyways or Christmas Market, perhaps it is time to taste the famous local brew, Rauchbier (smoked beer).

Our day in Bamberg ended with an unexpected snowfall that cast a soft glow on this lovely little village.

Rhine/Main Christmas Markets River Cruise Day 6

Wurzburg, December 15, 2009—our luxury River Duchess ship overnighted in delightful Wurzburg. Just when you think the villages in Germany could not get any more picturesque, along comes another picture-postcard-perfect town—like Wurzburg, also called Little Prague.

One of the best examples of Baroque architecture and the European Renaissance is manifested in the Wurzburg Residenz, a stunning palace which has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But of course, I was here for the Christmas Markets, and Wurzburg’s 200 yr-old Christkindlmarkt does not disappoint. Wandering the elaborately decorated wooden stalls, inhaling the fragrance of fir trees, sausages, and lebkuchen, and sharing in the camaraderie of the German locals really puts you in the Christmas spirit. And I love the focus on the Nativity scene in all the Christmas Markets.

In this particular Market, I found one stall selling handcarved wooden figurines from the famed Erzgebirg region. I purchased the most incredible smoker doll: it was a peddler at a Christmas Market selling tiny handcarved arches and pyramids—a mini replica of the Christmas Market stalls themselves. Definitely an heirloom, and the price was reasonable, too. Just a perfect remembrance of a perfect Christmas Markets experience.

Rhine/Main Christmas Markets River Cruise: The Wining and Dining

Sailing Wurzburg to Bamberg, December 15, 2009—another incredibly relaxing day on the River Duchess. We left Wurzburg around noon and embarked on a leisurely sail down the scenic Main to Bamberg, where we are scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Good time to talk about the food on this river cruise since delicious cuisine is integral to any memorable journey. In a word: amazing.

Executive Chef Milos leads a team of six talented chefs in a compact yet fully equipped galley of about 900 sq feet. Imagine whipping out approximately 360 made-to-order, multi-course meals per day, each course a work of art. Each meal is inspired, cooked with freshly purchased supplies while in town. And I don’t mean simple courses either. Salads comprise a variety of greens, vegetables, cheeses, and nuts with fresh made dressings. Soups are spectacular, for example, red lentil cream soup, a vegetable consommé that I would love to be able to replicate at home, carrot and ginger soup, mustard cream soup, to name just a few. These soups are just the best I have ever tasted and in fact, could constitute an entire meal with a slab of freshly baked bread—except that on the River Duchess, Chef Milos has other tempting dishes that demand tasting. So I oblige.

 

Dessert is not to be missed, no matter how satiated you think you are. One chef is dedicated entirely to pastries, and Georgy turns out delectably tender pastries, light cookies with lovely decorations, cream puffs, cakes, tortes, and puff pasty confections. For a guest’s special birthday celebration, he created a light, 4 layer torte with berry puree between the layers. Mmmmm. Georgy honored the passengers with a Christmas cookie baking (and tasting) demonstration, and naturally, he made it look easy to roll out a chunk of cookie dough to wafer thinness. And with a flick of his wrist, there were suddenly Christmas trees, mushrooms, and bells before our eyes. Georgy kindly passed out his Christmas cookie recipe to everyone, but I suspect the secret ingredient is really his confident technique.

 

Each of the chefs under Milos’ expert leadership has his own specialty, whether it is divine soups or the salads or entrees. Every meal a different menu item; in fact, I don’t remember seeing the same dish served twice on this entire cruise. When you have so many culinary geniuses working at a feverish pace in 1,000 sq ft, the kitchen could easily heat up. So I think that’s where Chef Milos’ executive leadership creates a cohesive team in extracting the best of everyone. The Executive Chef creates the menu and oversees the entire kitchen operations. Well done, Milos. Consistently the best meals I have ever eaten in my travels—or at home for that matter. It will be most difficult to return to my pedestrian homecooked meals after experiencing Chef Milos’ teams’ creations. Sigh.

 

Getting all that delicious food to the passengers in a timely manner is the responsibility of Restaurant Manager Francisco. A young man, he has already worked half his life managing restaurants in the world’s best ocean cruise liners, and now Uniworld is fortunate to have him onboard. Clearly his wait staff admires his abilities and leadership, and that translates to excellent customer service. Personable, efficient, and gracious, Francisco seamlessly ensures that diners are served what they want, when they want. Customer service is impeccable, attentive yet not obtrusive. Within a day, it seemed that the wait staff was attuned to all the passengers’ food preferences and idiosyncrasies—no mean feat.

 

Francisco is also solicitous of dietary restrictions, and in the case of our vegan diets—admittedly restrictive and confounding to most restaurants we have attempted to patronize—Francisco personally trudged to specialty food stores in port to buy us vegan foods to supplement the ship’s regular food stores—and in his ‘free’ time, no less! That is what I call exceptional service.

 

For those who enjoy a glass of wine with dinner, several wine varieties are freely poured which complement the gourmet meal. Also in Francisco’s domain is the bar staff in the Lounge, serving up traditional and specialty drinks, light breakfasts and lunches, and a delightful afternoon tea time with Dariusz’ musical accompaniment.

 

Under Francisco’s attentive guidance, the wait staff excels in the delivery of a crucial element in the enjoyable memories of a vacation. No one goes hungry or thirsty on this River Duchess cruise.

 

All the staff I have encountered—not just in the dining areas—are uniformly cheerful, friendly, courteous, and helpful. It will definitely be a hard landing to everyday life after the pampering of the River Duchess staff. Only two more days of this unforgettable cruise before I fly home. I’m dreading it already.

Puglia—the next Tuscany beckons

A little off the beaten track, the region of Puglia is captivating those who venture towards Italy’s heel.

 

Rolling hills with vineyards, majestic olive groves, and the Adriatic and Ionian Seas welcome visitors. Once you’ve experienced Puglia, you’re destined to return.

 

I toured one organic agriturismo with Silvio, the owner’s son-in-law who proudly showed me his operation. Olive trees with gigantic gnarled trunks spoke of an ancient age; indeed, some of his trees are 1500-2000 years old and incredibly, still producing olives.

 

The masseria, a fortified farmhouse of old, had delightful gardens, orange orchards, and all manner of fruits, vegetables, and animals. The purpose of a masseria was to protect its landowners and surrounding peasants by becoming a self-sustaining community if under attack by invaders. You can lodge in unique masserie throughout all of Puglia for an authentic experience.

 

This particular masseria, Il Frantoio, rents only eight special apartments comprising well-equipped kitchen/dining room, spacious bedroom with vaulted ceiling, and a private ensuite bath.

 

Sadly, I was staying only one night, but this oasis can easily be a restful retreat for a week of exploring the neighboring countryside. This area of Puglia is dotted with innumerable masserie in the country, offering an authentic glimpse into Pugliese lifestyle.

 

Besides countryside, Puglia is already well-known among Italians for its beaches, both sandy and rocky. The agriturismo in Puglia is quite advanced, which allows you to experience, for example, a comprehensive cooking class: go to the market with the cook to buy that day’s fresh fish, meat, or vegetables, return to the farmhouse for a cooking class, culminated by dining on the fruits of your labors. Or, during season, help to pick the olives, crush, and make olive oil. Or perhaps you’d rather participate in making the cheeses of the region. Puglia has perfected these types of immersion experiences.

 

Puglia is also uniquely the home to ‘trulli’, circular, one-or-two room abodes with distinctive conical roofs. Originally designed for quick dismantling if the royal tax collectors approached, trulli are now historical treasures. Alberobello in Puglia, home to 1400 trulli, is a designated UNESCO World-Heritage site and well worth a visit.

 

Touring Puglia is best done by car. While I don’t usually recommend driving a car in Italy (Italian drivers defy description), rental cars really are a necessity here. Trains travel north-south along Puglia’s coast but don’t crisscross the region, so you would miss half of Puglia by train. On a local level, bicycles are great fun for toodling about, but not practical for long distances. The country roads in Puglia, by and large, are fairly well maintained, and there is nothing like driving along a winding country road bordered by low, white rock walls to make you feel like you’re truly in Italy. The trickiest part is conquering the signage, but we can map out the roads for you to make your sightseeing stress-free.

Training from Palermo to Messina, Sicily and on to Reggio Calabria

From my Palermo hotel, it was a quick 15 min walk or 10 € cab ride to the stazione where I boarded my prompt ‘express’ train to Messina.

 

Only three cars, no primo classe, and no dining car, yet this train was an 11 € sightseeing bonanza.

 

As Palermo faded from view, a pastoral scene of orange groves, olive orchards, quaint villages, and grazing cattle and sheep on my right competed for my attention with the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea on my left. Small fishing boats, weather-faded in their once-brilliant colors, lined the beaches, and gentle waves lapped the shore.

 

The three-hour train ride zipped by. I was almost disappointed to arrive in Messina so snappily because that coastal route is really quite charming.

 

Once in Messina, we had an hour to wait for our 15 minute/3.30 € traghetto ferry to Reggio Calabria. The sea was such a brilliant hue of marine blue that it resembled an idealized painting. The hour passed quickly watching boats glide in and out of the harbor.

 

In Reggio Calabria on mainland Italy, we picked up our rental car (free upgrade to an Alfa Romeo—nice!) and headed north into Calabria.

 

All that beautiful scenery somehow reminded us we were hungry, so one of our first stops was the Auto Grill for a quick bite to eat. For those not familiar with Italy’s justifiably famous and unique Auto Grills, a quick explanation is in order. First of all, what they are not: these are not dirty food/gas joints where you would only stop out of sheer desperation. I haven’t found a US equivalent of Italy’s Auto Grills. Conveniently situated along Italy’s highways, the Auto Grills are a one-stop everything: auto fuel, bathroom stop, restaurant, souvenir shop, and grocery store. I always find here the best prices on handmade pasta to take home—shapes that I cannot find in the US. And as every Italian knows: different-shaped pasta taste different.

 

This particular Auto Grill also had a Calabresi wine and cheese gift shop and a lovely assortment of affordable clay vases and hand painted ceramiche. At the door was an authentic Calabresi hand cart, gaily painted in traditional colors and designs. Truly an enchanting and energizing stop.

 

There were no vegan panini ready-made in the deli, but no problem. The helpful fellow pointed to twenty one-gallon jars of various vegetables from which he would custom-make my panino. Hard to choose, but I finally settled on carciofes (artichokes), a smattering of aubergines, pomodori salad, and green olive paste spread on fragrantly fresh Calabresi bread. He grilled my panino and presto, the most delectable sandwich I’d eaten in years. My only regret is in not buying two panini.